Destinations

Condors soaring higher as the thermals warm in the early morning air at Colca Canyon; brown, white or multi-colored baby alpacas awaiting their next bottled milk snack on the lawn of Las Casitas de Colca; modern day Peruvian highlanders in international orange jumpsuits and helmets utilizing the ancient Inca rope pull/log roller technique to move heavy road equipment across an arched bridge over a rushing river in Machu Picchu township — all of these are part of the broad Peruvian experience.
 
I just returned a few weeks ago from a remarkable and truly mind-changing visit to Peru.  This modest country in terms of ’self-promotion’ contains the widest possible options for visitors to learn and grow as individuals.  A culture deeply rooted in the land itself expresses its history through the daily living of the people, in the historical remains of many cultures dating back several thousand years, in the constant growth of the Andes by millimeters a year and in the booming economy holding firm even in current times.
 
A few highlights from this recent trip:
 
Sunday service held in the church next to San Francisco Monastery in Lima — Quechua sung by the voices of devout Catholics who stem from the highland people of Peru and still express their long-lived history in the costumes they wear at festive occasions which occur almost every week.  Cathedrals and churches are altar-adorned and made of wood carved from trees imported from Central America — deep mahogany wood twisting in Baroque curves reminiscent of Bernini’s marble columns in St Peters - Rome.  Here in Peru the complex altars are draped in gold not only melted from early Inca gold artifacts looted after the conquest but embellished by silver art created from silver extracted from the mines of this land. 
 
The Cathedral of Lima holds the remains of the Spanish conqueror, Pizzaro.  Huge and richly decorated it shows the enormous wealth of the country and its deeply Catholic heritage brought by the Spanish.   Nearby the Aliaga family whose ancestor traveled with Pizzaro has been living in Peru since the 16th century and now hosts elegant dinners in their private 20-bedroom home located just a few steps from the Plaza.  This building modestly presents itself to the street behind substantial wooden doors.  Dinner is delicious and eaten after canapés and cocktails served in the spacious and historical lounge.  Everything is presented in rooms which have lasted centuries overlooking internal shrub- and tree-planted courtyards.  One feels transported back centuries and gets the feel of “once upon a time.”
 
I was able to see the annual Potato Festival celebrated in the main Plaza des Armes of Lima.  The plaza was filled by bands and dancers from all the regions of the country giving expression to this most essential vegetable sustenance here in Peru.  The Inca even invented a way of freezing and drying potatoes to make them last for several years — dessicated but retaining all the nutrients and vitamins needed for survival. 
 
Nature along the coast has beaches festooned with flocks of pink flamingoes whilst red-headed turkey vultures hunch on the nature park signage in a relaxed pose awaiting their next potential meal.   The dry desert of the Peruvian coast reminds one of the Skeleton Coast of Namibia with dunes, windswept barren rock-strewn surfaces but here in Peru, the Andes sends water down long rivers and streams allowing pencil-thin lines of liquid nourishment to nurture smallholdings of vegetables, wheat and other grains.  The long descent from the mountains ends in outlets to the sea rich in wildlife and feeding occasional flocks of goats tended by peasants living a precarious and transient existence along the coastal road.  Just beyond these islands of plant richness, the dessicated desert takes over again.
 
The mountains are a world unto themselves — high passes at 16,200 feet descend into valleys like Colca with an almost Grand Canyon-like eroded riverine depression splitting the high fields of corn, quinoa and wheat.  Huge and even active volcanoes such as the three famous ones near Aerquipa dominate the area which is full of deep mines and grasslands of the high Alto Plano.   Aerquipa produces fine weavings in the small factories which handle the products of the alpaca, vicunya or other camelids who inhabit those grassy plains.  
 
Machu Picchu is mentioned here not last by intent but because it’s impressive site at 8,000 feet is a fitting summation of all that the history of Peru can present.  Dominated even at this elevation by higher peaks and sited dramatically above a deep lush valley, one can even hike the famed Inca Trail to the Sun Gate where the Inca astromoners could determine by the sun breaking through the 3 openings along this ridge of mountain, the solstices and equinoxes every year.  The Inca Trail was the “information highway” of it’s day connecting Cusco with Machu Picchu.  Along it’s 27 miles of up and down at high elevations, teams of runners going at top pace ran from outpost to outpost using the still undeciphered “quipus” (threaded counters knotted in a yet unknown language telling of crop quantities, of citizen censuses, of armed and administered parts of the empire … all needed to run the Inca government during its time in ascendency) as informational sources for their rulers.
 
There is so so much more but this short set of paragraphs should give a sense of this remarkable country and lead you to want to learn more and to visit there as well.

2 Responses to “Peru: Coastline to Highlands and Beyond”

1. Marisa Robles Says:
   July 6th, 2009 at 3:41 pm

   what an impressive travelogue. for us who cannot travel just yet, this is a gift. reading it transports us to the place. we do not only learn from it, we “get lost” in it — very pleasurably. thank you, helen. and thank you to all those who write to share their travel experiences and insights. and thank you, casto! more power to you all!

2. cousin michael Says:
   July 12th, 2009 at 4:10 am

   nicely written and very evocative. Can you send me Barbara’s new telephone number? love M

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