Destinations

Condors soaring higher as the thermals warm in the early morning air at Colca Canyon; brown, white or multi-colored baby alpacas awaiting their next bottled milk snack on the lawn of Las Casitas de Colca; modern day Peruvian highlanders in international orange jumpsuits and helmets utilizing the ancient Inca rope pull/log roller technique to move heavy road equipment across an arched bridge over a rushing river in Machu Picchu township — all of these are part of the broad Peruvian experience.
 
I just returned a few weeks ago from a remarkable and truly mind-changing visit to Peru.  This modest country in terms of ’self-promotion’ contains the widest possible options for visitors to learn and grow as individuals.  A culture deeply rooted in the land itself expresses its history through the daily living of the people, in the historical remains of many cultures dating back several thousand years, in the constant growth of the Andes by millimeters a year and in the booming economy holding firm even in current times.
 
A few highlights from this recent trip:
 
Sunday service held in the church next to San Francisco Monastery in Lima — Quechua sung by the voices of devout Catholics who stem from the highland people of Peru and still express their long-lived history in the costumes they wear at festive occasions which occur almost every week.  Cathedrals and churches are altar-adorned and made of wood carved from trees imported from Central America — deep mahogany wood twisting in Baroque curves reminiscent of Bernini’s marble columns in St Peters - Rome.  Here in Peru the complex altars are draped in gold not only melted from early Inca gold artifacts looted after the conquest but embellished by silver art created from silver extracted from the mines of this land. 
 
The Cathedral of Lima holds the remains of the Spanish conqueror, Pizzaro.  Huge and richly decorated it shows the enormous wealth of the country and its deeply Catholic heritage brought by the Spanish.   Nearby the Aliaga family whose ancestor traveled with Pizzaro has been living in Peru since the 16th century and now hosts elegant dinners in their private 20-bedroom home located just a few steps from the Plaza.  This building modestly presents itself to the street behind substantial wooden doors.  Dinner is delicious and eaten after canapés and cocktails served in the spacious and historical lounge.  Everything is presented in rooms which have lasted centuries overlooking internal shrub- and tree-planted courtyards.  One feels transported back centuries and gets the feel of “once upon a time.”
 
I was able to see the annual Potato Festival celebrated in the main Plaza des Armes of Lima.  The plaza was filled by bands and dancers from all the regions of the country giving expression to this most essential vegetable sustenance here in Peru.  The Inca even invented a way of freezing and drying potatoes to make them last for several years — dessicated but retaining all the nutrients and vitamins needed for survival. 
 
Nature along the coast has beaches festooned with flocks of pink flamingoes whilst red-headed turkey vultures hunch on the nature park signage in a relaxed pose awaiting their next potential meal.   The dry desert of the Peruvian coast reminds one of the Skeleton Coast of Namibia with dunes, windswept barren rock-strewn surfaces but here in Peru, the Andes sends water down long rivers and streams allowing pencil-thin lines of liquid nourishment to nurture smallholdings of vegetables, wheat and other grains.  The long descent from the mountains ends in outlets to the sea rich in wildlife and feeding occasional flocks of goats tended by peasants living a precarious and transient existence along the coastal road.  Just beyond these islands of plant richness, the dessicated desert takes over again.
 
The mountains are a world unto themselves — high passes at 16,200 feet descend into valleys like Colca with an almost Grand Canyon-like eroded riverine depression splitting the high fields of corn, quinoa and wheat.  Huge and even active volcanoes such as the three famous ones near Aerquipa dominate the area which is full of deep mines and grasslands of the high Alto Plano.   Aerquipa produces fine weavings in the small factories which handle the products of the alpaca, vicunya or other camelids who inhabit those grassy plains.  
 
Machu Picchu is mentioned here not last by intent but because it’s impressive site at 8,000 feet is a fitting summation of all that the history of Peru can present.  Dominated even at this elevation by higher peaks and sited dramatically above a deep lush valley, one can even hike the famed Inca Trail to the Sun Gate where the Inca astromoners could determine by the sun breaking through the 3 openings along this ridge of mountain, the solstices and equinoxes every year.  The Inca Trail was the “information highway” of it’s day connecting Cusco with Machu Picchu.  Along it’s 27 miles of up and down at high elevations, teams of runners going at top pace ran from outpost to outpost using the still undeciphered “quipus” (threaded counters knotted in a yet unknown language telling of crop quantities, of citizen censuses, of armed and administered parts of the empire … all needed to run the Inca government during its time in ascendency) as informational sources for their rulers.
 
There is so so much more but this short set of paragraphs should give a sense of this remarkable country and lead you to want to learn more and to visit there as well.

Rio de Janeiro is hands down one of my favorite destinations. The scenery and music are among the best in the world  - and it is impossible not to get swept away by the wonderful Bossa Nova and Samba rhythm that IS Rio de Janeiro.

I’ve visited Rio several times over the last few years and always felt welcome and safe.  I won’t deny there are dangers - as with any big city - but if you use good common sense you can enjoy a safe trip, drinking in the incredible sights, sounds and delicacies of Rio.  My best travel tip is to pack light - leave behind any flashy clothes and jewelry - just bring the basics:  a pair of shorts, a tank top and good pair walking shoes -  and you’re ready to go!

For first time visitors I recommend staying in Ipanema. This is a safe, upscale neighborhood with many wonderful options for hotels and restaurants. My favorite is a Golden Tulip boutique hotel, THE IPANEMA PLAZA (http://www.ipanemaplaza.com.br/en-us/default.asp) , which caters mostly to European and South American tourists. The rooms are comfortable and immaculate and the staff are friendly and eager to help with an impressive ability to bounce effortlessly between 4 or 5 languages.  There is also a daily breakfast-buffet included with the cost of the room, which consists of three tables of hot and cold food - scrambled eggs, ham, bacon, sausages, ‘pão de quejo’ (a delicious local cheese-puff snack), various cheeses, meats, rolls, cereals, yogurt, and an array of fresh tropical fruit.

One of the best features about the Ipanema Plaza is the location.  Situated on Rua Farme de Amoedo, you are centrally located  - just one block from Ipanema Beach, and one block from GAROTA DE IPANEMA the corner Restaurant-Bar where the famous song ‘The Girl from Ipanema’ was written by Antonio Carlos Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes.  There is great shopping within two blocks on Visconde de Pirajá where you will find the latest fashions in Rio, with great buys for shoes, dresses, accessories, summer wear and
much more. Just three blocks away there is also a wonderful artisan open market known as the “Hippie Fair”, held Sundays 12 -5p in Praça General Osario.

My most recent trip was with a friend who owns a catering business, Diana’s Creative Catering of Malibu. Together we set out to learn about the culinary delights of Rio.  Her goal was to experience traditional Brazilian food, so our first stop was for Feijoada, the national dish of Brazil.  Feijoada is a thick black bean stew with pork, beef or sausage, served in clay pots. Typical side dishes are rice, manioc, or fried bananas - and there is always bowl of chili peppers close by for those truly serious about *spicy* food.  A traditional Brazilian drink to accompany is the national drink of Brazil - the Caipirinha - made of sugarcane alcohol, sugar and lime.  Since Feijoada can take hours, even days to prepare, some restaurants may only offer the dish on certain days of the week, however you can find Feijoada daily at the charming CASA DA FEIJOADA (Rua Prudente de Moraes 10) - just past the Praça General Osario.

If you want to experience an elegant buffet with authentic Brazilian dishes, don’t miss the Saturday afternoon brunch at the CAESAR PARK HOTEL’S GALANI RESTAURANT, on the 23rd floor of the Caesar Park Hotel.  You can enjoy the stunning birdseye views of Ipanema Beach with a buffet that will rival any offered by the finest hotels around the world. Executive Chef, Helbert Moura offers the best of Brazil’s traditional dishes with his personal touch combining the unique flavors of Brazil with an impressive first-class presentation.

For a really special dinner try one of Rio’s top restaurants, LE PRÉ CATALÁN (http://www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-1988-sofitel-rio-de-janeiro/restaurant.shtml) , located in the 5 Star SOFITEL in Copacabana. This restaurant is super chic - and you can experience the incredible views of Copacabana Beach while enjoying the ultra modern interior and creations of Chef Roland Villard.  Mr. Villard offers an exquisite combination of Brazil’s ingredients in a French-style preparation.  I recommend their ‘Tasting Menu Amazonia’ which offers 8 small courses with Amazonian fruits, vegetables and fish, and Amazonian fruit granité to cleanse the palate in between. This is a meal you will never forget.  Chef Villard personally comes to every table to explain the preparation of each dish (brush up on your French for this!)  Each meal is served with incomparable beauty and paired with wines from around the world.  A ‘do not miss’ experience, and a very special meal. I highly recommend this for any ‘foodies’ visiting Rio.

Our next stop was APRAZÍVEL (http://www.aprazivel.com.br/)  located high atop a winding hill in Rio’s historic Santa Teresa district. The setting is tropical with open air breezes and non-stop vistas over downtown Rio and Guanabara Bay.  Aprazível serves contemporary Brazilian cuisine with delicious signature dishes, such as their Peixe Tropical, an Amazonian fish served in orange sauce with coconut rice and baked bananas. Aprazível is a wonderful stop if you want to incorporate a visit to the charming
hilltop district of Santa Teresa with a unique dining experience overlooking a panorama of Rio.

Another wonderful restaurant district for meandering is Rio’s very vogue Lebon neighborhood. Many great restaurants are situated on Rua Dias Ferreira, where you can enjoy reading menus posted for viewing on the sidewalk until you find one that strikes your fancy.  Any restaurant with sidewalk seating or a good window seat will give a perfect vantage point to watch the ‘beautiful people’ of Rio pass by.  Make note that some of Lebon’s more ‘in’ restaurants are extremely popular, such as the famous SUSHI
LEBLON, which is frequented by Brazil’s and Hollywood’s stars. (Tom and Katie Cruise were there the week we were in Rio) - For these ‘hot spots’ reservations are recommended.  

Rio has a near endless selection of food and restaurants to accommodate any budget or preference.  Glance through the options when you arrive by purchasing a copy of VEJA RIO (http://vejabrasil.abril.com.br/rio-de-janeiro) , a local magazine listing Rio’s restaurants. Also, ask the locals for suggestions! Cariocas (the name for Rio’s locals) are delighted to help and may know of a good restaurant that just opened.  

Regardless of whether the music, culture or sights initially brought you to Rio, the meals will certainly be a part of the memories you take home!

(Stay tuned for my next article in honor of Carnival on the *Sights and Sounds of Rio!)*

If you are looking for an incredible Amazonian experience that is relatively easy to reach, I highly recommend Anavilhanas Jungle Lodge just outside of Manaus, Brazil.
 
On the Rio Negro (which joins the Amazon River at Manaus) sits the Anavilhanas Archipelago, the world’s largest fresh water archipelago.  Anavilhanas is host to indigenous species of fish, local crocodiles (Jacaré), freshwater pink dolphins, manatees and hundreds of species of flora and fauna.  Mosquitoes find the naturally high ph of the river disagreeable, so as an added plus - the area is relatively mosquito free!
 
In the midst of the private reserve is the Anavilhanas Jungle Lodge. Approximately 3 hours drive from Manaus, this lodge is truly a class-act and the perfect answer for the guest who wants the Amazon experience without having to give up all modern comfort.  The Lodge is relatively new (just one year old) and the only one of its kind in this protected preserve.
 
Anavilhanas Jungle Lodge is owned and run by a delightful young Brazilian couple who thought of every detail to bring the best combination of nature, beauty and regional flavor to their guests. The local staff are equally wonderful, bringing an additional element of local warmth and friendly, attentive service.
 
Anavilhanas Jungle Lodge offers a variety of packages ranging from 3 – 6 days , for approximately $250 per person per day.  The packages (which include all transfers, meals and tour-guided activities) are an unbelievable value.  Each activity gives the guests the opportunity to learn and experience more about the area than they could ever do on their own. The guides are highly knowledgeable – with a unique depth understanding of the area and its history, and each able to communicate in numerous languages (for example one of the guides spoke fluent Portuguese, English, Italian, French, Spanish and German!) The activities include boating excursions, bird watching, piranha fishing, caiman hunting, nature walks, and swimming with pink dolphins - just to name a few.

 The buffet-style meals (three full meals, daily) feature delicious regional dishes, consisting of local fish, chicken, beef and pork dishes, local fruits, vegetables and freshly baked deserts.  After lunch or dinner, the guests may choose to convene in the open lobby area for conversation, to play pool or some of the table games provided (chess, checkers etc). This area also has a computer, Cable TV and a wonderful collection of books to study more on the Amazonas’ flora and fauna. 

I spent three days at the Anavilhanas Lodge and came away with one of the most memorable experiences of my life. The time went far too quickly – I am already planning my return to this hidden paradise!