Destinations

I checked into the Dorchester yesterday after my 4 days at Claridge’s. Was debating spending my last night in London at either Gordon Ramsey or here. Here won out. The dining room has few hard edges. It’s very rounded, kind of like the Flintstones’ house. Colors are similar, too. Although it’s fairly dark, it’s creamy tones of beige and light brown. To the side of the room, but still surrounded by other tables and directly in front of me, there is a an oval shaped private dining area. It’s secluded from the rest of the room by light filled threads hanging from the ceiling. It’s very difficult to describe but it’s pure 3D fantasy. Inside (I peaked earlier) is a small table for 2 with a crystal candelabra (I barely see the flames from my table).

07 May 2009

2025 hrs
1st course is a soup with chunks of crayfish. The base is fois gras. It’s served in a porcelain egg, the top of which is removed as it is served and placed on the plate. All is color coordinated. Subtle earth tones. It’s fantastic. Who ever heard of a broth of foie gras?

Delicate crayfish veloute, royal of fois gras

2039 hrs
2nd course over. Need to research what celeriac is. Scallops were sliced very thin and tasty with black truffle. Could have passed on this course which is too bad because it’s only in the last couple of years I’ve started to enjoy scallops. So far best I had was last year in Cabo.

Invited to visit the Kitchen. This is really becoming fun now.

Rose of marinated scallops. Lamb’s lettuce and celeriac. Black truffle sauce.

2042 hrs
3rd course. The colors are orange, white, browns and the halogen light from above glitters in this amazing sauce. It’s frankly difficult to figure out exactly what’s here as the menu is vague and the waiters’ English could be a little clearer. Mushrooms are amazing but there are only two.

My Alain Ducasse champagne is refilled. Brut. 50% chard. 50% Pinot. Made by Lanson.

One of the waiters takes a swig of red wine before going back to his customer. That’s the way I’d do the job.

Restaurant is getting livelier as a group of men arrived. It’s a small place so the noise is noticeable, but certainly fine.

Roasted Chicken and Lobster, sweetbread, creamy juice.

2057 hrs
Halibut et al. The citrus sauce is fantastic. The fish is a small chunk, served warm, over a brothy citrus sauce. To the side, tomatoes (no, they’re actually kumquats sliced thin! Or mandarini cinesi*) and swiss chard. But discrete . The fish is served over an aubergine puree.

Bread dish is pain du pi (sp? - as in hair my Sardegnan waiter explained) We’re speaking Italian now and it’s easier.*

Braised halibut, citrus and swiss chards, eggplant condiment.

2114 hrs
How does one find potatoes this small? Maybe ¾ of an inch in diameter. But very flavorful. This mini rack of lamb is again, full of flavor. The meats falls off the bone. Mini vegis are cute. Like the other courses so far, the plate is bathed in sauce, this one from the lamb.

A very hot young couple just sat down next to me, but they’re pretty private. She’s wearing leggings with a tight top that just covers her bum and he’s wearing tight white jeans and a tighter black t-shirt. I’m assuming it’s not a business dinner.

Roasted rack and saddle of lamb, spring vegetables.

2130 hrs
Just met the chef, Jocelyn Herland (a guy). The kitchen is shiny and beautiful, and you cannot see it from the dining room. But he told me, with a nice French accent, that it’s important to emulate the environment in the dining room for his cooking staff.

2148 hrs
I asked for a small break before the cheese course. I’ll pass on a detailed analysis as I’m not a connoisseur nor huge fan of cheese courses. Even though I lived in Europe during college, I never got into the cheese course thing. That part of me (the chocolate cake, ice cream thing) is pure American [I will say there were 4 cheeses, each with its own condiment in an adjacent dish - Tuscan goat (from Ducasse’s Tuscan hotel/restaurant (call me for details and reservations), camembert, (unknown), and blue cheese with a tasty pear condiment. Also, beside light crackers, the bread course served was a slightly sweet hazelnut. About the same size as biscotti.

2215 hrs
Should I have a chocolate praline or Ducasse’s signature Baba. I think my new Sardegnan friend is bringing me both. Vediamo. Nope, he brought me a pre-dessert. Hope I’m not getting him in trouble by posting this. (oh god, he brought me both too!). And there’s an ice cream which tastes like a combination of vanilla and chili pepper. I had a choice of 4 rums to pour over the baba and I chose a Dominican one, inspired by Cuban invention. The bottle and mystique won me over. The gold leaf on the chocolate ganache has melted. It was the tiniest, and coolest, little flake. When you bite into the little cake you feel the layers and hear them crunch in the mousse. And there is nocciola (hazelnut) in there somewhere. I can sense it.

Praline-chocolate biscuit, milk/salt flower ice cream
Baba like in Monte-Carlo

2303 hrs
Finishing my coffee. Good night.

Visit http://www.joshfriedmantravel.com/  for my complete set of photos from this trip and other posts.

2 Responses to “Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester – LIVE: Course by Course”

1. Sherry Barson Says:
   June 29th, 2009 at 4:28 pm

   you’re living right!

2. Dallas Weinrich Says:
   March 12th, 2010 at 5:52 am

   Have just come back from a tremendous trip to Bangkok, stayed at Palm Beach Inn in the northwest part which is less busy than southwest areas, superior resort and wonderful bays near Bangkok like at Koh Larn. We hired a jeep for only 300 baht per day and would drive around the full area. So many great places to dine, our favourite spot was Thai Food Heaven which had the most terrific view over the beach, the staff was quite friendly and the food so yummy, we went for sunset drinks. My girlfriend and I had a great time in Bangkok and will be back for Easter.

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