Categories: Advice & Tips, Ecuador, Peru
A Casto Travel Blog
Peru and Ecuador – a Journey into the past
Author: Liz Spander03.19.2010

We departed Feb 13th to spend the 1st 6 nights in Peru—up in the Andean country. Arrived in Cuzco and went directly to the Sacred Valley—stayed 3 nights at Casa Andina–a wonderful hotel in the Urubamba Valley that is restful and perfect for getting acclimated to the altitude.
Machu Pichu was closed but it turned out to be a blessing in disguise. We were able to see many of the Inca and Pre-Inca sights that are not usually shown to tourists on a “short tour” of Cuzco and its surroundings. In fact all six of us agreed that we didn’t miss not going to Machu Pichu. We visited Ollyantantambo (more impressive than Machu Pichu I think), Moray, and Pisac. We visited the women’s weaving cooperative, founded and run by Nilda—an extraordinary woman, who has restored the ancient Inca weaving styles and patterns, had lunch in a private hacienda (Huayocari)—fantastic old hacienda dating back to the 1500’s, had a private cooking lesson and visit to the local market in Urumbamba by Chef Roger Behar, visited local craft markets and learned so much about Inca and pre Inca culture from our fabulous guide Edgar Medevil (an archeologist by training and guides during the rainy season). Then to Cuzco and the wonderful sites of Sacsayhuamam, Pikillacta (a pre Inca city dating back to 600AD—buried for centuries), and Tipon as well as all the great sites in Cuzco. Stayed at the Monastario –athe best hotel in the Andean area including all of Peru, Ecuador and Bolivia. And the food—the best. We never had a bad or even mediocre meal. We ate at different restaurants every day at lunch and dinner. I do have a list.
Then on to the Galapagos on the Explorer II –a wonderful ship that I highly recommend. A very professional staff, great naturalists, good lectures, and very good food. Every cabin is a Jr. Suite, with plenty of room, good lighting, nice amenities. 2 excursions per day plus snorkeling at least once a day. We were lucky most of the time with good weather. Only had to slosh through muck and rocks one day –on North Seymour. We couldn’t get over the lack of fear of all the animals, reptiles. Hard not to pet them as you walked within a few inches of them—almost stepped on a few iguanas and a baby sea lion—who was on the steps of our landing as we docked on an island.
Then to Quito. We stayed one night at the Casa Vieja—NOT recommended –but changed to the Hilton Colon—excellent hotel in a perfect location for walking around. (tho not recommended to walk alone or at night in Quito). We had a tour of the old city, went into the Presidential Palace to see a special guard graduation program.
We spent 2 days in the Otavalo area –staying at the Hacienda Cusin (excellent), whose owner has an extraordinary collection of old Inca textiles and art. The Otavalenos have become successful and prosperous with their talents. Each community in this area is known for one or another trade or art forms. We visited workshops of bread-doll factory, 2 different weavers, wood carvers. Spent an hour or so at the Otavalo market—in the afternoon when the tourists have left. The Big Market days are Wednesday and Saturday, when the “Indiginous people” come in from miles around with their arts and crafts. Went to weavers” homes, hat makers’ homes, small family run “biscuit” makers, “dough” toys makers, etc.
And Friday, thanks to our terrific guide, Edison and his connections, he took us to one of the largest rose plantations to see their operation, and then have lunch at the Hacienda of the owners–La Compania de Jesus. What a special treat and the best meal we had in Ecuador (the food is not as good as in Peru). Unfortunately, the trip had come to an end and we all departed –sad to leave so soon.
Eco-adventures uses the best tour companies in both countries –Setours in Peru and Metropolitan in Ecuador. I spoke to many guides, hotel people, etc (in Spanish) to find out about the best companies—and these names came up all the time at the top of the list.
I have no criticisms of anything on the trip. Our guides were excellent, knowledgeable and flexible. –we did change the itinerary as we went along to fulfill the requests of some of us in the group, or to add special activities.
I only regret that I didn’t have more time to explore these area. But I will be back!
March 24th, 2010 at 7:38 am
so good of you to write such a review.
I found a superb restaurant in Lima last week, SACHA. Hasta luego! Nik de Cusin