Destinations

New York & New Haven:   I had not visited this part of the East Coast in many a year and it was a perfect Spring almost summer-like with temperatures in the mid-80’s despite the burgeoning spring flower show on offer.  New York has only gotten better since last I visited.  Pulsing with energy as always but full of a sense of comfort, purpose and mere enjoyment as people moved to work, to play and to find spots of sunshine to absorb after a long, wet and cold winter.
 
I came to New York to meet very close Swedish friends, one of whom was going to give a talk at Yale University in New Haven.  A former journalist and newspaper editor in Sweden, his serious and in-depth tomes written after retirement have been recognized and I wanted to be there to hear his speech.  They flew in from Europe; I did the overnight from San Francisco.  With very little time in the City of New York we made the most of it– walking in Central Park, watching the spring profusion of budding trees and blossoming shrubs/flowers, visiting the amazing Apple Store at Columbus Circle (pulsing with frenzied new IPad purchasers), strolling Fifth Avenue as well as Rockefeller Center all the time checking out the many iconic buildings in varying architectural styles.   Dining in New York is legend — you can grab a quick snack at kosher hot dog stands or halal meat & rice street carts or retreat to full-service elegant dining spots.  We chose a bistro-style European café serving freshly prepared and organically grown meals.
 
The next day after a wonderful visit to the American Folk Art Museum (a treasure located next to the almost over-loved Museum of Modern Art) we headed to Grand Central Station and our Metro-North Train ride to New Haven.   New Haven is a town living with Yale University at its core… the original Town Green of old New Haven is the entry point to the extensive campus, full of impressive stone buildings housing dining commons, residential accommodations for the students,  massive libraries (including the famed Beinecke Library of rare books), lecture halls, music auditoria, and the accoutrements of life on campus.  Young people reading books and chatting on the commons lawns exemplifying those participating in real learning but softened by the spring in this buffered world of academia.  Surrounding the campus buildings were restaurants, large book stores, cafés, and a variety of businesses catering to their young clientele.
 
Returning to New York after the lecture, we overnighted at the classic Iroquois Hotel, an island of calm in the busy city, with excellent services and luxurious but understated ambience.  Next morning we headed back to California. 
 
The following weekend, it was off to Yosemite Valley which I had not seen in over 20 years!!  Such magnificence and vistas yet a sense of dignified calm and quietude predominated during our visit.  The Valley is full of people happy, relaxed and overjoyed with the dramatic views, overflowing waterfalls and animal life unafraid of those of us who have come to share the space with them.  We had an extra-ordinary two April days … warm daytime temperatures (it had just snowed 3 days prior), leaves emerging from stalks and stems, flowers showing awakening colors and scrawky sounds from the Steller’s Jay in its flashing blue coat, dark grey crest with two bright blue bars of color like Vishnu stripes on their foreheads.  The various waterfalls were bountifully full of water spilling over the lofty heights dropping in wide sprays of white foam and shifting spray paths towards the valley floor.  The temperatures at night were cold enough to cause ice patterns of frozen water against the granite walls in the early morning light.
 
In a modern world we can find outselves in the urban energy of a major American city one day, wending our way through the greenswards of an academic surround or hours later (OK — a day or so later) experiencing the still-preserved beauties of nature in one of the U.S.A.’s most historic and superb natural environments.   Quite something else!!

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We departed Feb 13th to spend the 1st 6 nights in Peru—up in the Andean country.  Arrived in Cuzco and went directly to the Sacred Valley—stayed 3 nights at Casa Andina–a wonderful hotel in the Urubamba Valley that is restful and perfect for getting acclimated to the altitude.

Machu Pichu was closed but it turned out to be a blessing in disguise.  We were able to see many of the Inca and Pre-Inca sights that are not usually shown to tourists on a “short tour” of Cuzco and its surroundings.  In fact all six of us agreed that we didn’t miss not going to Machu Pichu.  We visited Ollyantantambo (more impressive than Machu Pichu I think), Moray, and Pisac.  We visited the women’s weaving cooperative, founded and run by Nilda—an extraordinary woman, who has restored the ancient Inca weaving styles and patterns, had lunch in a private hacienda (Huayocari)—fantastic old hacienda dating back to the 1500’s, had a private cooking lesson and visit to the local market in Urumbamba by Chef Roger Behar, visited local craft markets and learned so much about Inca and pre Inca culture from our fabulous guide Edgar Medevil (an archeologist by training and guides during the rainy season).  Then to Cuzco and the wonderful sites of Sacsayhuamam, Pikillacta (a pre Inca city dating back to 600AD—buried for centuries), and  Tipon  as well as all the great sites in Cuzco.  Stayed at the Monastario –athe best hotel in the Andean area including all of Peru, Ecuador and Bolivia.  And the food—the best.  We never had a bad or even mediocre meal.  We ate at different restaurants every day at lunch and dinner.  I do have a list.

Then on to the Galapagos on the Explorer II –a wonderful ship that I highly recommend.  A very professional staff,  great naturalists, good lectures, and very good food.  Every cabin is a Jr. Suite, with plenty of room, good lighting, nice amenities.  2 excursions per day plus snorkeling at least once a day.  We were lucky most of the time with good weather.  Only had to slosh through muck and rocks one day –on North Seymour.  We couldn’t get over the lack of fear of all the animals, reptiles.  Hard not to pet them as you walked within a few inches of them—almost stepped on a few iguanas and a baby sea lion—who was on the steps of our landing as we docked on an island.

Then to Quito.  We stayed one night at the Casa Vieja—NOT recommended –but changed to the Hilton Colon—excellent hotel in a perfect location for walking around. (tho not recommended to walk alone or at night in Quito). We had a tour of the old city, went into the Presidential Palace to see a special guard graduation program.

We spent 2 days in the Otavalo area –staying at the Hacienda Cusin (excellent), whose owner has an extraordinary collection of old Inca textiles and art. The Otavalenos have become successful and prosperous with their talents. Each community in this area is known for one or another trade or art forms.  We visited workshops of bread-doll factory,  2 different weavers,  wood carvers. Spent an hour or so at the Otavalo market—in the afternoon when the tourists have left.  The Big Market days are Wednesday and Saturday, when the “Indiginous people” come in from miles around with their arts and crafts.  Went to weavers” homes,  hat makers’ homes, small  family run “biscuit” makers, “dough” toys makers, etc.

And Friday, thanks to our terrific guide, Edison and his connections,  he took us to one of the largest rose plantations to see their operation, and then have lunch at the Hacienda of the owners–La Compania de Jesus.  What a special treat and the best meal we had in Ecuador  (the food is not as good as in Peru).  Unfortunately, the trip had come to an end and we all departed –sad to leave so soon.

Eco-adventures uses the best tour companies in both countries –Setours in Peru and Metropolitan in Ecuador.  I spoke to many guides, hotel people, etc (in Spanish) to find out about the best companies—and these names came up all the time at the top of the list.

I have no criticisms of anything on the trip.  Our guides were excellent, knowledgeable and flexible. –we did change the itinerary as we went along to fulfill the requests of some of us in the group, or to add special activities.

I only regret that I didn’t have more time to explore these area.  But I will be back!

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Aaaahh, Puerto Vallarta, images of palm trees, beaches, tropical drinks and mountain scenes conjure up in my mind. Its Logan, “The Sea, The Town, The Mountain”, pretty much sums it up. No other popular touristy beach town in Mexico offers the backdrops that Puerto Vallarta does. The town faces Bahia de Banderas (Banderas Bay) and behind it are the beautiful Sierra Madre Mountains. For those who enjoy romance, seclusion, yet close enough to population, and places to party at night, Puerto Vallarta is one great place to visit. It’s not for nothing that Richard Burton’s, The Night of the Iguana, chose such a beautiful location to be filmed in. PV (Puerto Vallarta) still maintains that small town atmosphere with its cobblestone streets, the main plaza in the center of town and the church, Templo Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe.

Puerto Vallarta started becoming a resort town in the 1960’s and since then it has grown into a town of nearly 350,000 people. Most are locals but many are retirees and anyone who decided to visit it often enough to purchase a condominium there. This growth has prompted the development of many hotels and condominiums. The area of newer development is called Nuevo Vallarta, which is mainly a hotel zone. So if you like to be in the middle of all the action, day and night, than staying in a hotel in Nuevo Vallarta is the place for you; many touristy shops and restaurants are located here. However, there are other locations such as Zona Hotelera and Zona Marina that offer beautiful hotel accommodations as well.

In Puerto Vallarta the tourist can enjoy everything under the sun including golfing, whale watching, sport fishing and ecotourism. Surfers from all over the world have even found a place to surf in the northern town of Sayulita, about 25 miles north of PV. However, for off the beaten path beaches you may want to take a water taxi ride to the small fishing town of either Quimixto or Yelapa. To get to these towns you will need to get to the suburb called Boca de Tomatlan, reached by taking the Barra de Navidad road or carretera, traveling south of Puerto Vallarta; getting to the fishing towns could be on either taxi or public bus. Once there, you will find a few small water taxis (basically small fishing boats) that will transport you to one of the three small fishing villages. The first stop is Las Animas, next is Quimixto, and the final one is Yelapa. If agreed, the water taxi will drop you off where you wish in the morning and will come back for you at a predetermined hour in the afternoon. Quimixto is the most recommendable of the three to visit; but going early is the best bet to avoid crowds. In Quimixto you will find a hiking trail leading to a beautiful water fall; this area is wonderful for hiking.

A few hotels, especially those located in the southern parts of Vallarta such as in Conchas Chinas and Mismaloya offer their own private beach, such as Dreams Resort and Spa. However, there are many alternate hotel options, for an array of budgets, with a short distance to the beaches in that area. This area is surrounded by more tropical greenery and you will also find eco adventures such as canopy tours.

On the opposite end, the Northern side is what many refer to as the Riviera Nayarit (Nayarit is the state bordering north of Jalisco, which is the state Puerto Vallarta is in), but the official name is Punta Mita. Punta Mita is also a beautiful location, without the closeness of the mountains as found in the south, but a beautiful area with newer developments. One of these new developments is the exclusive and luxurious Four Seasons Hotel; located about 42 km from Puerto Vallarta airport.

Puerto Vallarta has everything a beach town can offer; beach, nightlife, small town ambiance, archeological site (Ixtapa) and it has been transformed into a creative and artistic Mecca. Many talented retirees and professional artists have made this town their home. This makes Puerto Vallarta a great place to view art displays as well theatrical events. It’s a good idea to always check with your hotel concierge or front desk for information on performances during your stay.   In the evenings one can enjoy anything from a loud, fun atmosphere of the restaurant bars found on the Malecon, to a quieter seafood dinner , to a possible art exhibition, whether it be performed or displayed.

Puerto Vallarta is a very unique destination in Mexico. Many tourists are repeat tourists for many reasons and the best part is that the place maintains its beauty and charm. So whether you travel alone, with your loved one or your whole family I am certain that Puerto Vallarta will not disappoint.

See you in PV and Happy Travels!

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